Installing Radiant Barrier Foil Over Attic Flooring

Posted by admin on July 5, 2010 · Leave a Comment 

attic exhaust fans

By Chris Huddle

Radiant barrier foil is a newer product that is growing in popularity when it comes to increasing your home’s energy efficiency. The three main types include two-sided with micro perforations, two-sided without micro perforations, and two-sided with bubble wrap in the center. In this article, we will look at applying two-sided, micro perforated radiant barrier foil to an attic floor.

The first thing to consider in all home improvement projects is safety. Potential hazards in this project include low clearance areas where you can hit your head on a rafter or nail, areas that lack flooring where you might accidentally put a foot through the underlying ceiling material, extreme heat that could induce heat exhaustion or heat stroke, and loose wiring that could deliver a nasty shock when contacting the foil product.

You may want to wear a hard hat for protection, and you will need to take note or mark where the attic flooring is and is not. Use four-foot lengths of board to safely walk on joists that lack floor material. If you must work in heat, realize that extended time in higher temperatures can make you very ill, and take preventive measures. Put a yard sprinkler on the roof to run water and cool the attic temperature. Run fans in the attic to move the air, or remove an air conditioning duct to make it blow cool air in the workspace. Inspect all wiring, cables, and junction boxes for loose wire or loose connections, and repair or have an electrician repair the faults. Also take note of any exhaust fans and canister lights or any other heat source. These areas must have a clearance of four to six inches on all sides for proper venting. If you have any waste vent that vents to the attic space, temporarily plug these vents with rags. The methane and other exiting gases should not be breathed.

You will need a space to mark out and cut lengths of foil. If you have adequate vertical clearance, you can suspend the foil roll from a rafter with a jig and note how high above the floor the roll is. That will be your standard length in feet that you can work with. Alternately, have a large space downstairs or in a garage to lay out, measure, and cut the foil. The cut foil lengths can then be rolled like carpet or folded accordion-style to make it easier to take to the attic space. Try to work from the points farthest from your attic entrance, to help avoid tearing or moving your previously laid pieces.

Some attics will allow the installation of the foil to run perpendicular to the joists, and this is the best direction. If your roof pitch is too shallow to allow running the foil perpendicular to the joists, it will need to be cut to run parallel to them. Most radiant barrier foil rolls are four feet wide. If your joists are 24 inches on center, simply cut the foil lengthwise to allow it to be placed on the insulation easily. While a four foot wide roll cut in half will not lie flat in the 46.5 inches of space between three joists or trusses, this is acceptable. Joists which are 16 inches on center will simply need to be cut in thirds width wise. In all other areas, allow for two inches of overlap on all sides. Also keep the foil 12 inches away from end walls and soviets or rafter vents to allow for proper ventilation.

The foil does not need to lie flat against the insulation. It works best with an airspace, so the natural peaks and valleys in the insulation are helpful. It also does not necessarily need to be taped or stapled on the seams. If it will be later walked on over a flooring surface, staple or tape it in enough places to prevent displacing the foil. For long runs and tight spaces, the challenge is how to put the foil where it belongs. Place a nail at the end of a length of thin wood trim or plastic pipe. Use the nail to move the foil into place. If you are running the foil from the center of an attic area in both directions, put a nail in each end of the wood or plastic pipe to prevent having to turn the tool around for the opposite side.

Chris Huddle has been authoring websites for over ten years, and his specialty is SEO. His latest site features men’s cashmere sweater deals at MensCashmereSweaterDeals.com

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Basic Insulation Buying Tips

Posted by admin on April 21, 2010 · Leave a Comment 

Insulation is the process of enclosing or covering an object with a material that serves as a barrier and reduces (or blocks) the flow of energy, specifically heat. It is essentially used for the following reasons:

-To reduce heat energy losses.

-To prevent nearby objects from heating up.

Below are some examples where insulation is typically used:

-On appliances – stoves and ovens, refrigerators and freezers, water heaters, water pipes, etc.

-On industrial applications.

When done properly, insulation can provide indoor comfort (by keeping your house cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter) and energy efficiency.

Determining and buying the insulation that is right for your household can be a challenge. Below are some helpful hints on how to go about buying the perfect insulation for your home.

1. What to insulate. The first thing to consider is to identify where the insulation will be installed or used. A personal inspection of your home may be sufficient, but it is still best to let the qualified people (such as your contractor) do the job.

Depending on your (or an expert’s) findings, your household might need any or all of the following insulation:

-Wall/cavity wall insulation. Cavity wall insulation prevents your house from being exposed to rapid temperature changes outside. Studies show that heat loss due to un-insulated walls can reach as much as 50%, and cavity wall insulation could possibly prevent 70% of this from happening.

-Loft/roof insulation. Because hot air rises, heat loss through the roof can reach as much as 25%. This can be greatly reduced with proper attic or loft insulation.

-Duct/pipe insulation. Leaky ducts or pipes can contribute to an increase in your heating (or cooling) costs. They can also burst (or freeze), so it is also important to have them properly insulated.

-Water cylinders/storage tanks. Hot water cylinders and cold water storage tanks also need to be insulated to prevent them from being exposed to intense cold or heat.

2. What to use. Traditional insulating materials that are commonly-used in the households are the following:

-Fiberglass/fiberglass mats/mineral fiber. Fiberglass is the most common and versatile type of insulating material that is made from molten glass and spun into microfibers.

Usually pink or yellow in color, fiberglass comes in 3 forms:

Rolls – blankets of insulation that may or may not have vapor barriers, which prevent condensation in cold areas that could result in damage (such as mold).

Batts – similar to rolls but come in lengths ranging from 4 to 8 feet.

Blown – these are loose insulation that can be ‘blown’ into walls or ceilings.

-Cellulose. Another insulating material that is commonly used in households is cellulose. It is a fibrous material made from scrap or recycled paper (like newsprint or cardboard) that is shredded and treated with chemicals that would make it resistant to fire and insects. It is then applied (poured or blown-in) into place, either as loose-fill or wet-sprayed with the use of a machine.

-Rock wool. As the name implies, rock wool is an insulating material that is made from rock. Manufactured similarly to that of a fiberglass (with molten rock replacing glass), rock wool can be in the form of a hollow brick or a porous concrete block.

-Synthetic insulation. Synthetic insulating materials are manufactured in several forms, some of which are the following:

Polystyrene foam – usually as rigid, pre-cut boards.

Polyurethane foam – usually as boards or foamed ‘insitu’ (“in position”).

Spray-on expanding foam – similar to that found in aerosol cans, it can completey seal and insulate even the smallest areas in the house by ‘poofing’ up to as much as 2 to 4 times the original size when applied.

Deciding on the right material to be used for installation largely depends on the area that requires installation. Below are some of the standard insulating materials that are recommended for the specific areas in your home:

-For loft or roof insulation

*Mineral wool quilt

*Blown mineral wool

*Blown cellulose fibre

-For duct or pipe insulation

*Mineral wool mat

*Pre-formed split foam insulation

*Foil-faced fiberglass insulation

*Vinyl-faced insulation

*Ridged foam insulation

-For wall insulation

*Blown-in cellulose

*Fiberglass (batt and roll) insulation

3. Check with an expert. Aside from your personal considerations, the key to finding the perfect insulation for your home is to consult a professional who is knowledgeable in this field. It is still best to check with an expert, who could provide you with several options that would best suit your needs.

Insulating your home may add to your household expenses today, but in the long run, it will not only save you money (by lowering your utility bills); it will also protect you and your property.

Insulation is the process of enclosing or covering an object with a material that serves as a barrier and reduces (or blocks) the flow of energy, specifically heat.

attic exhaust fans

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